Experts explain how the active ingredients of the products work to benefit the skin
While some defend the effectiveness of facial dermocosmetics in reducing wrinkles and sagging, others argue that these products are ineffective. The truth, however, seems to be somewhere in the middle: they play a crucial role in preserving the health of the skin, but choosing them carefully is essential.
“Choosing skin care on your own is not such a simple task, as you will have to have a clear definition in mind of the classification of your skin type (dry, oily, combination, acne-prone or sensitive), be aware of its fluctuations at second on your menstrual cycle, on your level of sensitivity and also on the indications of the main active ingredients on the cosmetic market”, explains Dr. Lilian Brasileiro, medical specialist in Dermatology and member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology.
With this in mind, we have selected 5 actions in which dermocosmetics are truly effective. Watch!
1. Hydration
Hydration is the mechanism responsible for aiding maintenance natural hydration of the skin and strengthen the protection barrier against external aggressors, such as pollution and climate, according to Dr. Lilian Brasileiro. “Additionally, adequate hydration helps improve skin texture and smoothness, as well as minimize the appearance of enlarged pores and irregularities,” she explains.
For dry skin
For those with dry skin, some active ingredients may be more effective. “When the key word is hydration for dry skin, we use excellent wildcards, such as vitamin E, squalane, alpha lipoic acid, aquaporins, coenzyme Q10, D-panthenol, gluconolactone, algae extracts, rose hips, macadamia and rosehip oil avocado Always use creamier vehicles, “says the professional.
For oily skin
According to the dermatologist, the active ingredients recommended for dry skin can also be used for oily skin, as long as they are diluted in lighter vehicles, such as serums, gel creams or lotions. “Moisturizing your skin is essential care, and even oily skin needs hydration to stay healthy and look radiant. When skin is dehydrated, it becomes dry, rough and may show signs of premature aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles,” adds Dr. Lilian Brasileiro.
Deeper hydration
Furthermore, hydration can reach deeper layers, in the case of active ingredients such as Hyaxel, a low molecular weight hyaluronic acid vectored by organic silicon. “Since it is smaller in size, it is able to permeate the deeper layers and, in this way, improves self-hydration, as well as stimulating cell renewal, with an anti-aging effect,” explains Maria Eugênia Ayres, pharmacist and technical manager at Biotec Dermocosméticos.
2. Check the oil
In Brazil, oily and combination skin predominates (which has greater greasiness in the T-zone – chin, nose and forehead). “For this skin you need to invest in oils and acne controllers; we use products that contain zinc, rosemary extracts, mandelic acid, salicylic acid, green teabenzoyl peroxide and mint,” explains Dr. Lilian Brasileiro.
3. Antioxidants
Antioxidant activities such as C vitamin, ferulic acid, OTZ 10, niacinamide, superox C, resveratrol and alistin are seen as true defenders of our skin. They work to neutralize free radicals, which cause damage to cells, leading to the appearance of wrinkles.
“Our body already has an endogenous antioxidant system, but, due to a metabolic process, our body produces more free radicals when exposed to UVA, UVB rays, pollution and other bad habits, such as smoking, stress constant and poor nutrition. Therefore, the body cannot do this job. This is why we should use these active ingredients, both topically and orally (in foods and through supplements)”, says dermatologist Dr. Paola Pomerantzeff, member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology.
If the option is vitamin C, choose formulas that take into account the stability of the active ingredient, such as ascorbosilane C. “It is an extremely stable vitamin C associated with organic silicon, which allows the active ingredient to permeate the deeper layers of the skin and have a more effective action with less possibility of oxidation of this active ingredient on the skin surface. Its action on the skin has a rejuvenating and antioxidant effect”, says pharmacist Maria Eugênia Ayres.
4. Stain resistant
In this case, according to Patrícia França, pharmacist and scientific manager of Biotec Dermocosméticos, the home use of dermocosmetics It is the cornerstone of blemish treatment. “Blemishes are caused by extrinsic and intrinsic factors, caused by the sun, hormonal dysfunction, pregnancy, blue light, which cause inflammation, causing the appearance of unwanted spots, freckles, age spots and melasma,” she explains.
Chemically, depigmenting agents (lighteners, stain removers) act in different ways. One of them is the evenness of skin tone by increasing the vitamin C transporter in the cell; another way is to inactivate the enzymes involved in the stain formation process; they can also act by inhibiting the initial stimulus, as in the case of sunscreens, which can offer chemical, physical or biological protection.
“When the intention is to lighten blemishes, don’t give up depigmenting agents, such as arbutin, tranexamic acid, vitamin C, hydroquinone, belide and kojic acid,” says Dr. Lilian Brasileiro.
5. Anti-inflammatory
In addition to the inflammation that we can find in cases of acne, dermatitis, irritation and redness of the skin, there is a subclinical inflammatory process known as inflammatory. “This is a new concept linked to premature aging caused, among other conditions, by the formation of free radicals resulting from exposure to ultraviolet rays, pollution and a diet rich in processed foods. These actions promote an imbalance between pro- and anti-inflammatory mechanisms of the organism, increasing the state continuous and progressive inflammatory process”, explains Patrícia França.
In this case, creams with Silicium P are recommended. “This organic silicon for topical use has an anti-inflammatory, healing and calming action. It activates collagen biosynthesis by over 20%”, explains the pharmacist. Furthermore, as the years pass, some skin cells lose the ability to divide, but this does not mean that they are harmless: they actively secrete chemicals that promote inflammation and damage nearby cells.
By Paola Amoroso
Source: Terra
Ben Stock is a lifestyle journalist and author at Gossipify. He writes about topics such as health, wellness, travel, food and home decor. He provides practical advice and inspiration to improve well-being, keeps readers up to date with latest lifestyle news and trends, known for his engaging writing style, in-depth analysis and unique perspectives.
