The Swiss giant Lindt and Italian artisans produce delicacies
The famous Turin gianduiotto, a small creamy chocolate that melts in the mouth, is at the center of a battle for European recognition, in a clash between Italian artisans against the Swiss giant Lindt. The information comes from AFP.
In his workshop on the outskirts of the northwestern Italian city, Luca Ballesio, 42, is one of the last chocolatiers making gianduiotto in the traditional way.
He is part of a committee made up of around 40 chocolatiers, as well as companies such as Ferrero, Venchi and Domori, who are trying to obtain the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) for gianduiotto from the European Union.
The objective is to enhance chocolate, increase sales – already estimated at around 200 million euros a year – and carry on the chocolate tradition in Turin.
However, they face opposition from Lindt, owner since 1997 of the Italian manufacturer Caffaril, which claims to have invented the gianduiotto.
“This battle is important to valorise a historic product of Turin,” Ballesio told AFP.
The committee developed very detailed criteria that would have to be met by anyone hoping to obtain the desired PGI for their products.
Faithful to tradition, the idea involves a return to the original gianduiotto, with 30-45% toasted Piedmontese hazelnuts, at least 25% cocoa and sugar.
The 200-year-old recipe, however, is not liked by Lindt, which involves the addition of powdered milk and wants to reduce the hazelnut content to 26%.
«For us, adding powdered milk to chocolate is like diluting wine with water», protested Guido Castagna, president of the Gianduiotto Committee of Turin.
“We don’t want to take anything away from Caffarel. We are not fighting against Caffarel. For us Caffaril can easily continue its production. But it must be clear to Caffaril that we are defending the gianduiotto as it was originally produced,” Castagna told AFP.
Caffaril, for her part, insists that she has never opposed the recognition of a PGI, which, in her opinion, would contribute “to the prestige of the gianduiotto in Italy and in the world”.
But the Lindt subsidiary already has its own brand, “Gianduiotto 1865 – the authentic Gianduiotto di Torino”, and fears that creating a similar PGI, “Gianduiotto di Torino”, could cause confusion.
“Our goal is to find an agreement that satisfies all parties and that allows Caffaril to protect the historical value of its brand,” the company said.
Chocolate dates back to the naval blockade ordered by Napoleon against Great Britain and its empire in 1806, which created a shortage of cocoa on the European continent.
Turin chocolatiers began for the first time to use hazelnuts, of which the region is rich.
It was only in 1865 that Piedmontese hazelnut paste took its name from a carnival costume, the Gianduia, symbol of Turin, and was marketed by Caffarel. .
Source: Terra
Rose James is a Gossipify movie and series reviewer known for her in-depth analysis and unique perspective on the latest releases. With a background in film studies, she provides engaging and informative reviews, and keeps readers up to date with industry trends and emerging talents.
