Considered a Brazilian epidemic, melasma affects approximately 35% of women in the country
Participant in the current edition of Big Brother Brazil, singer Wanessa Camargo appeared without makeup in some moments of the program, when some brownish spots with irregular edges could be seen on her face, characteristic of a skin disease known as melasma. According to estimates by the Brazilian Society of Dermatology, melasma affects approximately 35% of women in Brazil and can be considered a real epidemic in the country.
“Melasma is a disease that causes an increase in the production of melanin (the pigment that gives the skin color) by melanocytes (skin cells that produce melanin). It mostly affects women, especially pregnant women or those using hormonal contraceptive drugs. However, men can also develop the condition. And, although it does not represent a significant health risk, melasma can generate great aesthetic discomfort”, explains Danilo S. Talarico, doctor in Medical Trichology and Hair Surgery.
And, despite treatment aimed at controlling the blemishes, melasma is considered a chronic disease, so there is no cure and treatment is not permanent. Therefore, prevention is the best strategy to deal with the problem.
Preventive care
Melasma is a multifactorial disease, with different mechanisms of action involved that must be taken into consideration when combating the condition. In this sense, the main trigger of melasma is, without a doubt, ultraviolet radiation from the sun.
“Solar radiation stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin, a pigment that gives color to the skin and causes dark spots. Furthermore, some studies have indicated visible light, such as that emitted by electronic devices, as another trigger factor for melasma”, explains Cláudia Merlo, doctor in Cosmetology at the BWS Institute.
Therefore, the main tool against melasma is the daily use of sunscreen. «The ideal is to opt for a colored mineral sunscreen, as it is capable of protecting the skin from the damage of the three main attackers of melanocytes: ultraviolet rays, infrared rays and visible light», advises Danilo Talarico.
Hormones and genetics also enter the equation for the development of melasma.
“Patients with a family history of the disease are more likely to suffer from melasma spots and, therefore, should double their preventive care. The same goes for pregnant women and people who use contraceptives due to the action of female hormones in stimulating skin pigmentation,” says dermatologist Renato Soriani, member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology and expert in dermatological technologies.
Home care
Once the spots appear on the skin, given the variety of factors involved in the disease, the combination of different therapeutic approaches, always associated with a preventive action, is essential to control melasma and is what guarantees good results. For example, a daily skin care routine is essential to control the condition.
“Proper skin care for melasma will not only promote the lightening of imperfections, with active ingredients that reduce the production of melanin, but will also reduce the aggression that melanocytes suffer on a daily basis. But we cannot delude ourselves that a skin care routine prevents the appearance of melasma, since the origin of the disease is independent of the topical products applied and derives from genetic, hormonal and environmental factors of each patient”, says Danilo Talarico.
In the skincare routine, Danilo recommends using extremely delicate detergents to cleanse the skin without damaging it. “Those looking for a rejuvenating product can opt for products formulated with alpha-hydroxy acids, which help whiten and rejuvenate the skin in a less aggressive way,” advises the specialist.
Topical whiteners are essential
However, since the mechanisms involved in melasma are multiple, a single formulation may not be sufficient, making it necessary to formulate day and night products.
“Nighttime formulations generally combine acids that stimulate cell renewal, leaving the skin more sensitized, as well as containing photosensitive substances. Therefore, bet on formulas with active ingredients such as β-White (which acts on the key protein that regulates pigmentation), Superox-C (Vitamin C of natural origin and highly antioxidant), Liposomal Tranexamic Acid (decreases the production of melanin and the vascular linked to melasma), methimazole (inhibits the enzyme involved in the skin pigmentation process) and resveratrol (antioxidant)”, advises pharmacist Patrícia França, scientific director of Biotec Dermocosméticos.
In the morning we should use active ingredients that continue the whitening process, reduce inflammation and act as photoprotectors.
“This formula may contain active ingredients such as Ascorbosilane C (vitamin C vectorized in silicon which acts by inhibiting melanogenesis), Proshield MDC (produced with a powerful antioxidant and protective action against visible light, digital pollution and blue light), Silymarin ( antioxidant), Niacinamide (antioxidant and acts by inhibiting the transfer of melanin formed to keratinocytes) and Miniporyl (acts as an anti-inflammatory and modulator of sebocytes, which leads to changes in the behavior of fibroblasts and melanocytes)”, adds Patrícia.
It is also important to highlight that there are also lesser-known factors that favor the worsening of melasma, compromising its treatment, such as heat. «The external heat of the climate, the sauna and even the stove can darken the spots caused by the disorder», warns Claudia Merlo.
Melasma patients should also pay particular attention to habits that increase the production of free radicals. “Any habits linked to the release of free radicals can worsen melasma, including stress, smoking and exposure to pollution. Therefore, in addition to avoiding them, it is advisable to use cosmetics formulated with antioxidants”, explains Renato Soriani.
In-office treatments
In the office Renato highlights the picosecond laser as the key to reducing the dark spots of melasma.
“The picosecond laser causes the microfragmentation of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots, breaking it into small pieces so that they can be eliminated more easily by the body,” teaches the dermatologist.
In fact, recently, a study pointed to the picosecond laser as the most effective technology in treating the condition, especially when combined with the use of oral tranexamic acid.
“Tranexamic acid is already a consolidated substance in the treatment of melasma, as it inhibits the release of an enzyme called plasmin in the skin, which occurs following aggressions, such as that caused by exposure to the sun, leading to the stimulation of factors linked to formation of dark spots,” explains the doctor.
Skin procedures
In addition to treatments that act directly on the pigment, Cláudia also highlights the importance of procedures that aim to improve the quality of the skin.
“The integrity of the skin barrier is a fundamental and little discussed issue in the treatment of melasma. A complete skin barrier, in addition to protecting the skin from external aggressors, guarantees better control of melasma. In this sense it is important, for example, to avoid very aggressive products and treatments that can damage the skin barrier and cause skin irritation, with consequent activation of melanin production,” he advises.
“To guarantee an intact skin barrier it is also necessary to increase collagen production and guarantee good hydration, which becomes compromised over the years. This is why I always recommend procedures such as lasers and biostimulators to increase collagen production, as well as injectables such as skinbooster, a hyaluronic acid which, instead of volumizing, improves skin hydration”, explains the doctor.
Finally, it is important to highlight that individualized treatment, appropriately planned by a specialist doctor after an in-depth evaluation of each patient, represents the most effective solution for controlling melasma.
“It is also worth remembering that melasma is a disease with no definitive cure and, therefore, treatment must be continuous, with treatment maintained throughout life to reduce existing blemishes and prevent the appearance of new changes. commitment, patience and patience of the patient, concludes Cláudia Merlo.
inspires transformation in the world of work, in business, in society. Compass, a content and connection agency, is born.
Source: Terra
Rose James is a Gossipify movie and series reviewer known for her in-depth analysis and unique perspective on the latest releases. With a background in film studies, she provides engaging and informative reviews, and keeps readers up to date with industry trends and emerging talents.
