Orlova’s pistachio lingerie and Gurchenko’s suit: favorite things of Soviet style icons

When Lyudmila Gurchenko was again compared to Marlene Dietrich, she simply rolled her eyes. First, because the German singer knew only one key – F minor. Secondly, she never acted in the films “Love and Doves” or “Five Evenings”. And most importantly, Dietrich knew from childhood what good shoes are. And she was barely able to survive and become a star in Soviet conditions, when there was no makeup and costumes (at least, Gurchenko assumed).

In the conditions of an endless shortage of goods, it was extremely difficult for Soviet women to dress luxuriously. In terms of style, they took inspiration from famous actresses, singers and ballerinas. Of those who had at least a small but tangible access to European excesses. And even if not, he could create a unique fashionable piece of art from simple materials.

A real lady with elegant manners, a magnificent figure and an expressive appearance could easily shine in Hollywood. Moreover, the demands of the prima of Soviet cinema were truly “European”. “Orlova’s closet is so full that moths won’t be able to live in it – it will be cramped,” joked the actress’ friend Faina Ranevskaya.

The diva’s wardrobe included a dozen pairs of gloves (for which, it is rumored, Orlova flew to Paris every week), luxurious draped dresses à la Mariano Fortuny and Madame Gre, through which pistachio linen shone discreetly. The actress was especially fond of the latter – she wore underwear of this particular color for many years.

Edita Piekha – sheath dress and modest pumps

Many women, seeing something super fashionable, immediately rushed to try it on. Beautiful or not, it doesn’t matter, the essential is elegant and original. Edita Piekha, on the contrary, never chased trends and chose things exclusively to her taste. Elegant two-piece suits, elegant blouses with bows, sheath dresses in delicate shades and hats with a veil – all this was the hallmark of the singer.

Instead of expensive jewelry, Edita wore a velvet band or a colorful handkerchief around her neck. And instead of high heels – modest, neat pumps or flat ballet flats.

Lyudmila Gurchenko – silk fabrics and pearl scattering

“Woman is a party. Elementary woman. Woman Extravaganza” was an unparalleled style icon. Lyudmila Markovna invented all her outfits herself: she modeled, cut, sewed, mastered the most complex embroidery and worked lace. After all, it is the lack of clothing that stimulates the imagination.

A long jacket with overlapping shoulders and a short skirt, a fitted suit or a polka dot dress that emphasizes a thin wasp waist… The simple but unique creations created by Gurchenko have always aroused real delight.

Maya Plisetskaya – Chanel suit

The inimitable ballerina was known far beyond the borders of the Soviet Union – she belonged to the whole world. Muse of Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent, she was adored by everyone and everywhere. Plisetskaya was the first among Soviet ballerinas to start practicing in a leotard, and practically the first of Soviet women to try haute couture. Maya especially liked the white silk suit (jacket and short dress) – a gift from Coco Chanel. The same famous golden buttons with a lion (the zodiac sign Gabriel) were sewn on the jacket.

Sofia Rotaru – blouses with embellishments

The singer’s influence on Soviet and later fashion is underestimated by many. And in vain. Sophia was one of the few who did not shine in French outfits, but preferred the original ethnic style. Embellished blouses, colorful dresses in national colors… Many, imitating Rotar, set out to modify grandmother’s shirts in a modern way. Over time, the style of the singer has changed, but many remember her precisely for such bright and unexpected decisions.

Text: Anastasia Baranova