80s, 90s or zero? When they invented gel polish, fillers and discovered the effect of Botox

Gel polish returned to the mainstream in 2010, when the CND company launched the iconic light-curing Shellac – it lasts for several weeks and does not damage nails. The trend has been taken up by other brands. Ultraviolet lamps have been replaced by safer ones – with LED radiation, and the procedure itself can already be done at home: the lamp and a special set of tools are now available free of charge.

In 1986, the discovery of growth factors (GF) was awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine. These cells accelerate the regeneration processes of body tissues and were originally used to treat burns. A little later, miracle cells aroused the interest of the beauty industry: great hopes were placed on them in anti-aging cosmetology.

Due to the large size of the molecules, the growth factors present in cosmetics only act in the upper layers of the skin. Additionally, these proteins are not stable and do not interact with all components. So scientists still have work to do. But despite this, GFs give good results in the fight against the signs of aging and in skin restoration. Today, cosmetics containing growth factors can be recognized by the cytokines they contain.

The first FDA-approved dermal filler appeared in the early 1980s. It replaced “terribly beautiful” silicone and was made of purified bovine collagen. Later, other partially absorbable gels began to appear, and then polycaprolactone gels, which were already completely eliminated from the body.

At the beginning of the 2000s, fillers based on hyaluronic acid (HA) appeared, which are still in high demand today. HA does not cause allergies, after six months it is completely absorbed without harming the body and has an antidote. Another popular trend in contour plastic surgery is lipofilling, where the role of filler is played by your own fat. Adipose tissue is removed in the operating room, so liposuction is almost always combined with lipofilling.

The Israeli company Mepro has launched the first Epilady electric epilator. It was a rotating coil spring that pulled out the hairs. The device was popular, but not perfect – the spring often snagged the skin, making hair removal torture. The situation was corrected by competitors Braun and Philips, replacing the spring with several rotating disks.

Modern electric epilators are ready to work underwater and are equipped with trimers, an electric shaver, massage and cooling accessories to reduce pain. But the principle of their operation is the same. Household photoepilators appeared – Philips was the pioneer, Braun took over, and today the gadget has appeared in dozens of other brands. Flashes of high-intensity pulsed light block the nutrition of the hair, after which the follicle dies, and the result is comparable to laser hair removal.

Initially, the desire for natural cosmetics was expressed by an increase in the percentage of organic ingredients and a reduction in chemical components: preservatives, aggressive surfactants, dyes, flavorings. These ingredients are replaced in cosmetics by natural preservatives, mild surfactants and organic colorants.

The “Green Revolution” has swept the beauty market. Strict international certificates for natural cosmetics ECOCERT, ECO, BIO, COSMOS have appeared. Cosmetics are tested less on animals. These cosmetic products were decorated with an icon with a rabbit or the inscription cruelty-free – ethical cosmetics. People think about the impact of the composition of cosmetics on the environment; many “green” companies have joined the cause of nature protection. Cosmetics manufacturers have been forced to support this trend, counting on consumer loyalty. Microplastics present in peels and scrubs, packaging films and non-recyclable bottles are removed from circulation.

The most popular beauty devices of the 90s in our country were darsonval, which generates high-frequency pulsed current, and light therapy lamps. Gezatone has become a pioneer in the production of appliances for home use. At the end of the millennium, first generation gadgets appeared: a pore-cleaning vacuum cleaner, a vibrating massager for the face, eyelids, body, feet and hair, an electric washing brush (first with bristles , later in silicone).

Home devices have become an alternative to hardware cosmetology. Microcurrents, ultrasonic cleaning, space helmet masks with LED therapy, iontophoresis, phonophoresis, there is even a home gadget for RF lifting. Manufacturers often combine several areas in one device. Yes, most of them have weaker technical characteristics than professional equipment, but this is enough to significantly improve the condition of the skin.

In 2003, a personalized cream based on genetic research was created for the first time in California. But the genetic approach did not become truly popular until 15 years later. Custom formulations work on the same principle: concentrates are added to the base product, taking into account the characteristics of the skin.

They are not only an individual cream, but also the “very suitable” shade of foundation, blush, lip gloss and lipstick. You can “knead” the formula yourself or order it on the website – you need to fill out a form and take high-quality photos of your face. In the West, these services have become the norm, but in our country the trend is only strengthening. But many clinics already carry out genetic analysis, which makes it possible to create the most effective (and not only) anti-aging program.

Their research in cosmetics began at the beginning of the 20th century. At first, scientists studied human placental biomaterials (banned in cosmetic production here and in Europe since the 1980s), then turned to animals. It was believed that these cosmetic products turned back time and restored youth. In the 2000s, a real placental cosmetic boom began, with Japan and Korea leading the offer.

Ethical considerations have led many manufacturers to turn to plant phytostem cells. They are extracted from young shoots and buds of plants and contain megadoses of antioxidants, peptides and various amino acids. But some scientists doubt the benefits of stem cells, believing that they die quickly in cosmetic formulas. Overall, cell therapy and tissue engineering are still in their infancy.

In 2002, botulinum toxin type A received official approval for use in cosmetology. This neuropeptide blocks muscle activity, resulting in the smoothing of wrinkles. The pioneer of its use was the company Allergan, the drug itself was called “Botox”. It was very popular, even despite the high risk of side effects – they occurred in every sixth patient.

The first generation of botulinum botulinum had one drawback: a possible mask effect on the face. To eliminate it, modern manufacturers have begun to carefully purify the protein structure. Therefore, the result of the procedure became more natural, but with a shorter duration. Although “reinforced concrete” options are also present on the market, they are more suitable for men’s skin and of course have all the safety certificates.