For over 30 years, a symbol of national swimwear fashion, the designer linked to the Amazonian universe at the Biennale Pavilion
Last Monday, the 14th, the designer from Rio Lenny Niemeyerone of the main names in national beachwear, occupied the third floor of the iconic Biennale Pavilion, in Ibirapuera Park, in Sao Paulo, with the fashion show of its new collection, called AV 25.
The well-known architectural refinement that is part of the brand’s DNA emerged on the catwalk with a creative gaze focused on themes such as Brazilianness and nature, with a strong material research as the focal point. Lenny, who entered the market at the end of the 70s producing bikinis for brands such as Fiorucci, Richards and Andrea Saletto, founded his own brand in 1991, in Rio de Janeiro, and since then has established himself with a fashion that, in addition to clothing for the water, also includes a complete line of accessories and proposals for what the brand defines as “post-beach”, with a range of clothes and shoes aligned with the proposal of each collection.
In the new season Lenny brings an important reflection on the relationship between fashion and nature. “We are not separated from it; it is from it that we came and to it we will return. On this journey we entered the forest to rediscover the greatest fact of our existence: we are made of rivers, plants, earth, animals, insects…”, he writes, drawing a narrative in which metals, leaves, silks, colors and prints appear in a profusion which, despite being extremely cohesive and faithful to Lenny’s imaginative lexicon, also enhances the properties, essence and personality of each material, managed with mastery thanks to a network of suppliers and experts brought together by the brand for the season.
“We looked for materials that supported the narrative we created, that brought the concept to life. Once defined, they themselves pave the way for the choice of forms. In this exhibition we brought pirarucu leather, vegetable leather, wicker, as well as inlay and turning them into products was, without a doubt, a great challenge, exactly what motivated me to create new shapes – without a doubt, the most interesting part of the creative process and, of course, without “damaging” the natural shapes of the fabric,. fauna and flora of the Amazon rainforest, I loved this new challenge,” says the designer about her working process.
Dialogue with fashion
In the collection each material gains its own prominent space, but also appears in dialogue with Lenny’s fashion, proposing new paths. The characteristics of the scales that create the texture of the pirarucu leather, for example, alternate with looks characterized by python prints, and both have brown as the background colour, creating a visual approach that goes from two-dimensional to three-dimensional, with fluidity and elegance, perfectly in Lenny’s style.
Material extracted from Amazonian fish and beLEAF – an innovation that creates fabric from leaves – were sustainably developed for the collection, in collaboration with the Brazilian company pioneering the development of bioleather, Nova Kaeru, which works with cooperatives and fishermen indigenous and riverine communities in the Amazon.
In addition to leather, there are also sculpted metal bikinis, real fashion armor for the summer, made by the artisans of the Ruby Yallouz Atelier; pieces covered in geometric mosaics, created in collaboration with Marquetaria do Acre; and sculptural wicker corsets hand-woven by the professionals at MP Arte. All in perfect harmony with Lenny’s expressive lines, a rich color palette that lights up in vibrant shades of yellow, red, green and blue, and with models with dramatic and theatrical movements, such as the sustainable silk skirts and capes of the Casulo Feliz company.
“We are a Brazilian brand, which is very inspired by the power of our nature, and one of my pillars of inspiration is botany,” says the designer about the collection’s starting point. Lenny has made himself known in the market for creating swimsuits that take inspiration from themes that go beyond the Brazilian coast and the typical prints known in the sector. For this season, the proposal is to take the consumer on a “journey through the forest” – and, here, Brazilian flora and nature are the main threads. “Reflecting on our relationship with it took us directly to the forest, to its strength and its importance. Its exuberance inspired us a lot, leading paths in materials and forms”, adds the designer, who found in the creation of a collaboration network and union of skills the ideal path to achieve your goal.
Expanding universe
Present on the market for over 30 years, Lenny Niemeyer is a reference name in his sector, a leader in an era when the beach was not yet synonymous with fashion. “I’m happy to see Brazilian beachwear now treated as fashion, because when I started it wasn’t even considered,” she explains.
“The big change I see in the sector is the understanding that today brands are not only developed for the beach, but also, and in my case always, for the post-beach, thinking about how this woman can evolve her day with looks ranging from sun to drinks, with the right accessories and more sophisticated products, beachwear brands are increasingly expanding this territory”, says the designer.
Source: Terra
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