Few moments in New York fashion were more stratospheric than the mid-1990s, when the triumvirate of Calvin, Ralph and Donna dominated both the runway and the heavy-handed ad campaigns of supermodels, and Geoffrey Beene made dresses so precise and poetic they were loyal to the stylist. . . The fans were crying.
On September 10 at Pier 17 in New York, Jason Wu said the time was right to reference that magical moment through his Spring 2023 collection. he. . the hollywood reporter Backstage after a performance at New York Fashion Week. “Also, I’ve been on 35th Street and Seventh Avenue for 10 years. It’s at the heart of everything, all my fashion memories are there and I love it. So instead of looking for outside inspiration, I wanted to look inside the incredible talent of that era, with my own interpretation.”
Wu’s vision translated into a highly polished collection that blended crisp tailoring, linen details and lush textures. The sportswear and couture influence that matched his inspiration so much was evident from the very first look, a tailored white suit jacket enhanced by sheer panels, stitched details and split sleeves, worn over an asymmetrical pleated skirt. Satin pants, a beaded tunic and a linen-inspired top also add up to chic statements that are never out of place, just completely modern. The late “Mr. Beene”, meanwhile, would certainly appreciate the asymmetry Wu applied to several of her dresses and gowns, as well as an elegant final gown in pale purple pearls, with the thinner straps draped over one shoulder.
The textural elements, such as the fluorescent metallic studs used to create a diamond-encrusted or embroidered dress reminiscent of Wisteria, were also important. And the silk floral print came from an Instagram discovery. “I saw [artist] Leonardo Pucci worked there and I wanted to work with him,” he explained, adding that Pucci focuses on the Japanese art of shibari, a bondage technique that emphasizes the juxtaposition of weakness and strength. “Flowers have always been a constant theme for me, but I love how he takes the most beautiful, sublime flowers and creates that tension. I found the combination of weakness and strength very special. ”
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Few of the dresses were easy to stand out at Monday night’s Emmy Awards, but Wu admitted it was too late. “My work will be there though,” she added, hinting that she was working with “the first nominee from one of my favorite shows.”
sat in the front row Call Jesus. save your soulRegina Hall, who will host Monday night. But she held back when asked if she would, a natural assumption, especially since her performance was her first experience at New York Fashion Week. “The energy in the room, seeing everything in person is very exciting,” he said. “I also love Jason very much as a designer and as a person. Everything she does is whimsical, feminine and sexy without being overtly sexual.”
Hours later, at an event in Midtown near the United Nations, Prabal Gurung said he wanted to draw attention to the idea that conservative political forces in the United States are discouraging individuality. Feminist ideas seem to be something that upsets patriarchy and the status quo,” Gurung told me. THR Backstage before your show. “Hope and optimism have always been my thing, so I decided to celebrate people who are often watched, watched, scrutinized, rarely welcomed, but also invisible. This is my tribe and my found family.”
Gurung came up with the idea while attending a rave in Brooklyn with his adult nephew, he said. “I was surrounded by the most amazing group of people,” he recalled. “Everything around us can seem pretty dystopian right now, so I wanted to bring these people who are always irreverent to themselves, the misfits, the weird beauties, and show how they guide me and give me hope.”
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How did this inspiration manifest itself in Gurung’s designs? Highlight for Day-Glo colors for starters, bright fluorescent silk chiffon and draped shoulder prints in mini dresses, such as a deftly laced halter with satin shorts or a shoulder embellished with a black leather strap. Elements of women’s lingerie, such as a lace corset with a tulle dress or lace shorts under sheer pants, added a touch of sensuality to these pieces, as did latex stockings and opera gloves. “I wanted to create intimate moments because that’s where you are most vulnerable but also most empowered,” Gurung said.
In general, Gurung’s strategy was based on taking elements that might not be at the couture level and creating them in exactly that way. “I really enjoyed putting ideas together,” he explained. “I took strips of acid-washed jeans and created a skirt that was very trendy. A tulle dress can be a little loose when it falls off the shoulder. These contradictions are everywhere and I wanted to highlight that. ”
She then expanded her fascination with the idea by pitching it to the show. “It wasn’t traditional,” Gurung added. “We brought people from different places. I’m in a position to show the world what different versions of beauty can look like, and I believe in highlighting those differences, not hiding them. The people on this show are beautiful, dynamic and inspiring, and they deserve to be celebrated. “
Source: Hollywood Reporter
Camila Luna is a writer at Gossipify, where she covers the latest movies and television series. With a passion for all things entertainment, Camila brings her unique perspective to her writing and offers readers an inside look at the industry. Camila is a graduate from the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) with a degree in English and is also a avid movie watcher.
