New York designers have learned several lessons from the COVID-19 pandemic, not only about how to maintain a luxury-oriented fashion business amidst the global standstill, but also about the importance of making decisions based entirely on personal fulfillment and final concern. . And if a satisfied designer equates to a commercially successful collection, it may not be a coincidence.
That’s how Brandon Maxwell and Carolina Herrera’s creative director Wes Gordon approached the Spring/Summer 2023 collections that debuted this week. Gordon’s performance at The Plaza exuded boundless fun in every element, from his iconic New York style to his bright floral print on his centerpiece, a theme inspired by Frances Hodgson Burnett’s 1911 novel. secret Garden — and especially the show’s soundtrack, a mix of the funniest Broadway hits and Barbra Streisand films.
“I didn’t want hipster EDM music, I wanted fun music that girls like,” Gordon told her. the hollywood reporter After the show. In fact, it was impossible not to notice that even Karlie Kloss, one of the catwalk champions, seemed to find another step when Streisand’s voice began to sing the title song. Hello Dolly!
“Literally from the very first note, I knew this was going to be one of the funniest, most emotional and empowering collections we’ve ever seen from Wes,” said Broadway producer Jordan Roth, whose company August owns and operates. Wilson Theatre, where Lea Michele currently lives her dream eight times a week as Fanny Brice funny girlThe role that made Streisand famous in 1964.
“Don’t Rain on My Parade” was actually a little bit emotional when Gordon’s collection hit the runway with celebrities like Guardians of the Galaxy Actress Karen Gillan, singer Ellie Goulding, Martha Stewart and Sabrina Carpenter sat in the front row. Gordon was inspired by Burnett’s novel not only because it was his mother’s favorite book and she had read it as a child, but because it allowed her to fully embrace her love of color and flowers. “The collection’s secret ingredient came from the injections of black that you’ll see throughout the space, a note of softness and romanticism,” he explains. “I’m not worried about following trends; Instead, I’m doubling who I am and who the house is, and I’m irreverently doing work on beauty.”
Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
Five floral prints formed the heart of the collection: “the seeds of my garden”, Gordon calls them. These playful ensembles in bright shades of pink, yellow and pale blue were mixed with pops of black in silhouettes that looked decidedly Upper East Side. The silhouettes included white shirts and black pants with floral belt detailing, midi-bust tops with A-line skirts that reached almost to her ankles, and a gorgeous mix of long-sleeved striped tops and yellow floral pants. . “I took derivatives of five prints and some were enlarged on the gauze, others I reduced or took details from elsewhere,” explains Gordon. “Many of them read quite differently, even though they are the same anemone flower.”
Gordon also had fun with off-the-shoulder floral bouquets on several dresses, including a red silk crepe gown. If the dress looked familiar, it’s because Kate Hudson wore the design two days before her runway debut, when she appeared on the red carpet at the Toronto International Film Festival. “There’s always been a feeling that the reveal of the collection should be a big secret, but I don’t think that’s our world anymore,” says Gordon. “If something is beautiful, share it. I’m pleased and glad he wore it the day before our show. “
Happiness is also synonymous with serenity and Brandon Maxwell was more than prepared for that sensibility with his latest collection. The stylist, who began styling Lady Gaga and other high-profile stars, was looking for a quieter life, he says, and why not? Her schedule is full of projects lately, from a stint as a guest designer at FILA, a sneaker clothing line that hits stores in August that is both classic and contemporary, and a stint as creative director at Walmart fashion. , which debuted in February. “Next week we start filming the TV show as well,” adds Maxwell of Bravo’s 20th season. project RunwayIn which he stars with Kloss, fellow designer Christian Siriano and We will Editor-in-Chief Nina Garcia.
“It’s so satisfying to go to work and be a part of someone’s journey,” says Maxwell of the reality show. “I know it’s a TV show, but the filming and process is very real and very human. And honestly, I don’t feel far from where [the contestants] They are, so it’s a wonderful pleasure to be a part of what they’re going through.”
So it’s understandable that Maxwell wants to get out of Manhattan to enjoy a more bucolic existence in his spare time. The designer quickly discovered that the morning hours, filled with birdsong and the hues of the sunrise, were not only relaxing but also very inspiring. “Those hours between 5 and 7 am were the most restorative of my life in the last two months,” he said. THR Backstage after your show.
Lavender, which Maxwell calls “a very calm color that also lacks a sense of urgency,” became a central theme that was also used to brighten his presentation space, a series of galleries at Christie’s Auction House in Midtown. From the start, sunrise hues mixed with neutrals to create a pale mix, like low-rise wheat pants with an apricot tank top speckled with light sequins, as well as asymmetrical skirts that fell down one thigh and baggy pants together. . Strapless top decorated with black sequins and golden daisies.
In the end, it was the perfect combination of polish and simplicity. “You never want to lose the DNA and core of the brand, which is a very polished look,” says Maxwell. “But you also want to validate where you are now, which for me is a slightly more relaxed place I think.”
Maxwell’s flowers had this facility too, never looking precious or forced; Also, one print evoked thoughts about the light-sensitive paper kids use to make nature prints in grade school, not that they look childish. Instead, they felt elegant and natural in their simplicity. “Where I live now brings back a lot of memories of where I grew up,” explains Maxwell, referring to his Texas roots. “I think that peace and quiet brought a time when life was slower, the future seemed unknown and I dreamed of working in fashion. With that in mind, I wanted to make things a little less obvious:
This floral print wrap dress was a hit from the collection, as was a silver mermaid skirt with cutouts in pink, lavender and moss green, in case Maxwell’s red carpet fans were worried she wasn’t there. These parts are ready. “Having been a stylist for so many years, I think it’s always in the back of my mind, even if it’s not something I consciously plan for,” she notes. “Right now I’m really focused on saying what I want to say through the collection; If it’s a long dress, great, but if not, that’s fine too. The last few years have been difficult, but now I am truly grateful. “
Source: Hollywood Reporter
Camila Luna is a writer at Gossipify, where she covers the latest movies and television series. With a passion for all things entertainment, Camila brings her unique perspective to her writing and offers readers an inside look at the industry. Camila is a graduate from the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) with a degree in English and is also a avid movie watcher.
