American musician, actress and philanthropist Dolly Parton died on Tuesday at the age of 80 following a brief battle with cancer.
The prolific singer was famous for a signature style that elevated her 1.52 metre frame with towering heels, voluminous blonde wigs and rhinestone adornments. Over a career spanning more than six decades, Parton became one of the most recognisable figures in global entertainment, achieving immense success in both country and pop music.
Parton often joked that it cost a great deal of money to look as cheap as she did.
Her visual presentation both on and off the stage reflected her roots in rural Tennessee and her embodiment of extravagant feminine glamour. She gave herself the nickname Backwoods Barbie, which she also used as the title of her 2008 studio album. Parton was rarely seen in public without long artificial nails, heavy makeup and an abundance of glitter.
The artist always had an ironic response for critics of her flamboyant style. She frequently joked that her hair was a fire hazard. She also used her long red acrylic nails as a percussion instrument while performing her hit song 9 to 5, the title track to the 1980 comedy film in which she made her acting debut.
Unapologetic, eye catching clothing was a cornerstone of her wardrobe, with shoulder pads, plunging necklines, cinched waists and lace among her essential items. Fans loved her all the more for the deep self awareness she brought to her outfits.
Nashville beginnings
In her 2023 book Behind the Seams, Parton wrote that she already had ideas about her on stage and off stage presentation when she moved to Nashville in 1964. Nashville is the traditional centre of the American country music industry.
She wrote that country music stars at the time were expected to have voluminous hair, a touch of sparkle and a Cadillac. Parton added that she had the big hair but lacked the car and sufficient glitter.
The singer identified with the costumes worn by stars on the Grand Ole Opry stage, the historic weekly country music concert in Nashville. She admired performers such as Jean Shepard. She did not shy away from unconventional influences, telling People magazine that as a young woman she drew inspiration from the daring catalogues of Frederick's of Hollywood, the American lingerie brand.
Her version of glamour flirted with bad taste. Last year, she said she actively wanted to look somewhat vulgar and artificial, embracing an exaggerated aesthetic and bleached hair.
Staying true to her vision
Conviction was the backbone of her public persona. In Behind the Seams, she recalled signing with Monument Records in 1965 and clashing with the label president.
The executive wanted to straighten her hair and dress her in modern clothing suited to 1960s pop stars. Parton said she hated the proposed look and felt naked without her usual styling.
Even her more delicate looks featured volume. The cover of her chart topping 1973 album Jolene showed her with a white off the shoulder striped outfit, her signature blonde hair framing her face.
On stage and on red carpets, she favoured hot pink jumpsuits, ice blue off the shoulder dresses and pearl studded cropped jackets.
Parton collaborated with prominent designers such as Bob Mackie. He created a wing shaped Butterfly dress for her 1979 television special Dolly and Carol in Nashville. Mackie also dressed Parton and television host Oprah Winfrey in complementary outfits for Parton's variety show Dolly.
Custom wardrobe
In 2000, Parton attended a White House luncheon to discuss her Imagination Library, a charity project that posts free books to children from birth until they start school. For the event, she wore a bright yellow fringed blazer and skirt set with matching heels.
Fringe was another trademark. Her outfits regularly incorporated classic country motifs like cowboy hats and bell bottoms, though they were typically adapted with heavy doses of glitter and bright colours.
She wore around 300 custom made outfits each year. Her longtime collaborator Steve Summers told Vogue that every piece was tailored specifically for her, even if it started as an off the rack garment.
Summers noted that a new outfit was in production every day. He added that it was not unusual for Parton to wear 10 different outfits in a single day during public appearances.
Cultural impact
Numerous stars have drawn inspiration from Parton's style. Her goddaughter Miley Cyrus has performed alongside her in synchronised costumes. Beyonce paid homage to Parton in her own version of Jolene, and Sabrina Carpenter performed a duet with her while embracing Parton's signature femininity and blonde curls.
Her aesthetic also resonated with the public. British photographer Alice Hawkins spent ten years documenting herself and others living out their Dolly inspired American dreams, publishing the results in her 2022 book Dear Dolly.
Parton once entered a Dolly lookalike contest at a West Hollywood gay bar and lost. Recalling the event in an interview, she joked that it was a good thing she was born a woman, or else she would have become a drag queen.
Visitors making the pilgrimage to Dollywood, her Tennessee theme park, are forbidden from dressing exactly like her under official park rules, a policy implemented because Parton herself used to visit the park. However, many guests still pay tribute to her style by wearing glitter.
While her clothing could be replicated, the core of her style was a message of self determination. She said she would always be herself because she knew who she was, whereas others did not.
