Banned all over the world: discover the gastronomic ritual of eating a whole bird

Ortolan has already been tried by Jacquin and played in series such as Billions and Succession; learn more about the controversial dish

Would you eat a whole bird? With organs, head, bones and viscera? It may seem completely out of our reality, but this dish really exists and is a somewhat bizarre French tradition.

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The greengrocer is a small migratory bird, cousin of the sparrow, about the size of a thumb and widespread above all in Europe. In France, during the 18th and 19th centuries, it became an extremely popular delicacy, especially among the nobility.

The tradition of eating the greengrocer became even more well known after French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte was portrayed enjoying the bird at his table.

The preparation is controversial

The preparation of the greengrocer is the most controversial part of this whole story. Before being cooked, the birds are fed in captivity, forced to gorge on grain to quickly fatten up, nearly doubling their weight in just a few weeks.

This process, known as “fattening”, is done with the bird trapped inside dark boxes, so they lose their point of reference and eat more and more. Another unusual practice, but one that can happen, is that instead of boxes, farmers prefer to blindfold greengrocers or even blind them. The purpose of this practice is to enhance the flavor of the meat and make the bird more appetizing.

After this step, the greengrocers are traditionally drowned in cognac, which is supposed to muffle their singing and give them a special touch. They are then plucked, quickly roasted and served whole, allowing the person to taste them with their hands.

Generally, this process is done on the day the bird is to be eaten, to make the meat even more fresh and juicier.

Is it forbidden to eat greengrocers?

YES! Due to growing concern for the environment and species conservation, the practice of catching, fattening and consuming the greengrocer has come under criticism and legal restrictions. In the 1990s, the European Union banned the hunting and trade of greengrocers, classifying the species as endangered.

Despite this, some defenders of the tradition argue that the hunt for greengrocers continues clandestinely and that the ban has not been enough to put an end to this practice, rooted in French gastronomic culture. Furthermore, there are also voices defending sustainability in responsible preparation and consumption, emphasizing the importance of preserving the bird and its natural ecosystem.

For this reason it is very difficult to meet someone who has already tasted this controversial delicacy, however, one of Brazil’s most loved chefs, Erick Jacquin, admits that he tasted it a long time ago in France. Ortolan also appeared in the Amazon Prime series ‘Billions’ and HBO’s ‘Succession’.

bizarre tasting ritual

For those who have the courage to try the greengrocer, the experience is described as unique and unforgettable, but a bit bizarre.

The tasting takes place in a ceremonious way, in which the person who will taste must place a cloth over their head, such as a hood, to create an intimate environment and ensure that the experience is sensorial and private, preserving the taste and smell of the bird. The bird is eaten whole, bones, organs and all, with a flavor that is often compared to a mixture of game and liver.

Another much more superstitious explanation for this ritual is that when eating such a beautiful animal, it is best to hide from God, hence the cloth on the head.

As we have already said, despite being illegal, it is still sold and consumed on the clandestine market, clandestinely. It can be found for more than 150 euros (R$791, at current prices).

Source: Terra

Ben

Ben Stock is a lifestyle journalist and author at Gossipify. He writes about topics such as health, wellness, travel, food and home decor. He provides practical advice and inspiration to improve well-being, keeps readers up to date with latest lifestyle news and trends, known for his engaging writing style, in-depth analysis and unique perspectives.