In-office pharmacological skin treatment, with cleansing and hydration with boosters, is one of the beauty trends
When it comes to skincare, many trends appear on the Internet, in TikTok and Instagram videos, but are quickly discarded. On the other hand, there are trends that have a high scientific character and come from studies presented at dermatology and beauty events.
“There are increasingly in-depth topics at international conferences, including cellular senescence, when cells stop dividing to enter the programmed death phase. But this natural process has side effects, as these cells secrete substances that cause inflammation. This is a topic that has been much debated to present strategies to minimize, manage and treat this problem”, explains pharmacist Patrícia França, scientific director of Biotec Dermocosméticos, who participated in the congresses of the American Academy of Dermatology and the World Cup World of Dermatology from Singapore.
Discover the top 7 skincare trends that will be featured in cosmetic launches and treatments.
Skin care in the office
Dermatological technologies are on the rise to also treat the surface of the skin, like real in-studio skincare. One of these treatments, according to dermatologist Renato Soriani, member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology (SBD), expert in dermatological technologies and former coordinator of the Department of Laser and Technologies of the SBD (2017-2021), is the HydraFacial.
“HydraFacial is a strategy to improve the quality of the skin’s surface, as it features tips equipped with technology capable of generating a vortex that extracts impurities by infusing active ingredients into the skin. Thus, the procedure cleans, revitalizes, moisturizes and purifies the skin tissue. And we can also combine it, for example, with lasers, which translates into an improvement in the results of these technologies”, comments the doctor.
The most basic protocol begins with cleansing and chemical exfoliation to accelerate cell renewal, improve evenness and reduce skin thickness.
“Then the extraction of impurities, blackheads and comedones is carried out combined with the infusion of a hydrating solution. Subsequently, boosters are applied which have a high concentration of active ingredients selected according to the needs of each skin. And, finally, we administer antioxidants to protect and improve the appearance of the skin”, specifies Renato Soriani.
“In itself, the procedure can promote an immediate improvement in the quality of the skin tissue, standardizing the texture and increasing the firmness, vitality, softness and luminosity of the skin,” he adds.
Sun protection from melanin
Sun exposure without adequate protection ages the skin and increases the risk of cancer. This simply doesn’t happen on a much more serious level because within our skin there is a protective mechanism: melanin.
“Melanin is the pigment that gives humans the color of their skin, eyes and hair. It is the body’s first and best natural defense against the sun’s harmful rays”, explains dermatologist Paola Pomerantzeff, member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology.
American researchers want to imitate this protective mechanism to develop a new potentially ultra-protective sunscreen derived from this biological substance present in almost all organisms.
«The study showed that the melanin component converts light into heat of all wavelengths, from ultraviolet to infrared, offering a broad spectrum of protection», explains Paola.
“Melanin could, in theory, be used to produce a barrier to radiation. But melanin is so notoriously unstable and difficult to study that, until now, scientists have been unable to see what it looks like at the molecular level, resulting in a slow trial-and-error approach to its potential use in skincare products. personal care”. the doctor.
The expectation, by obtaining this better understanding of the structure of melanin, is to produce alternatives with predictably better performance than those currently available.
Fight against zombie cells
Cellular senescence includes the moment when cells, due to age and factors such as lifestyle and environmental aggressors, lose the ability to divide, secreting substances that promote inflammation and damage nearby cells.
“They behave like real zombies from fictional series, creating an apocalyptic scenario by inflaming and damaging healthy cells. This leads to an accelerated aging process and the appearance of skin pathologies,” explains pharmacist Patrícia França.
Based on new studies on the subject, there is now an antidote to the problem: the topical active ingredient Scutaline. “It prevents the spread of zombie cells by reducing inflammation, the production of free radicals and the degradation of collagen and elastin fibres. In this way the product delays and prevents the signs of aging”, explains pharmacist Maria Eugênia Ayres, technical manager of Biotec Dermocosméticos.
In pharmaceutical pharmacies the product is available in the form of micellar cleansing wipes, when combined with Polymol PGCC, which is able to form micelles that attract dirt from the skin to promote delicate and effective cleansing, providing comfort thanks to its emollient action. , or in the form of treatment creams and serums.
“To fight zombie cells we can also combine nutraceuticals such as Desmovit and FC Oral. The first is important, as it will provide SOD, Catalase and Glutathione, the main antioxidant enzymes of our enzymatic defense system, minimizing the impact of free radicals and improving the response against inflammation. And for its anti-inflammatory action, FC Oral is important because it is composed of phospholipids of marine origin rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), omega 3 (DHA and EPA), astaxanthin and vitamin E, which will act by reducing the inflammatory process,” he says Patricia.
Exosomes in cellular communication
The name is difficult, but they are the hot topic: exosomes are increasingly discussed at conferences. They are a subset of extracellular vesicles released as part of normal physiology.
“These structures carry active biological cargo such as proteins, lipids and genetic material and represent a new parameter for intercellular communication. In this way the organism is able to proliferate cells and signal the creation of new vessels or collagen, for example. In Brazil we already have active “exosome-like”, which have a similar action, based on cell-cell communication. SWT-7, an active ingredient that promotes the increase in the production of keratinocyte growth factors by cells derived from adipose tissue, has a unique cell-cell communication mechanism that helps fill wrinkles,” says Patrícia França.
Shortening of brake telomeres
Structures present in cells and considered the key to preventing aging, telomeres have the main function of protecting the genetic material carried by the chromosome.
“As our cells divide to multiply and regenerate the body’s tissues and organs, the length of telomeres is reduced and, as time passes, they become increasingly shorter and this is linked to aging and increased exposure to diseases,” says pharmacist Maria Eugênia.
One strategy to combat the problem is the use of active ingredients such as Telodormin, an active ingredient extracted from the dormant bulbs of the Narcissus plant. “It is able to modulate the proliferation of senescent fibroblasts to slow down the shortening of telomeres, which is directly related to the aging process. Telodormin preserves the health and youthfulness of the skin, improving the elasticity of the skin tissue and visibly reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines”, claims Patrícia França.
Taking care of your microbiome
Patrícia explains that the skin microbiome is an ecosystem composed of bacteria, fungi, mites and viruses, highly diversified, with intra-individual variations and based on its habitat.
“The same individual can present different microenvironments depending on temperature, humidity, pH, sebum content and exposure to UV radiation, factors that favor differences between the microbial population. Strategies that ensure good intestinal balance, such as the use of prebiotics and probiotics, immunomodulators and other compounds, are welcome because, when they play their role in intestinal health, they positively reflect on the balance of skin health,” he says.
In addition to oral and topical probiotics, Patrícia recommends Betamune SC 70 yeast to help treat intestinal dysbiosis, which has a strong connection to acne and skin barrier dysfunction.
New nutricosmetic forms
In addition to the classic oral treatment with capsules, tablets and chewing gum, new forms of manipulation are appearing on the market that facilitate adherence to treatment. Omelette, lollipops, chocolate and even coffee are in the running to treat your skin.
“The instant egg white omelette, for example, is a powdered mixture that allows you to prepare an egg white omelette quickly and conveniently anywhere, simply by adding water and cooking. Flavored with toasted onion, the product contains 12g of protein in each serving, the equivalent of three egg whites. It is also fat-free and low in sodium. To this base we can add oral active ingredients such as Exsynutriment, a bioavailable silicon essential for the production of collagen, a protein that gives elasticity and firmness to the skin, helping to keep the skin young and revitalized”, adds pharmacist Maria Eugênia. .
“Lollipops can be formulated with active ingredients that prevent skin inflammation caused by sugar, in the case of the oral active ingredient Glycoxil, and coffee can have Bio-Arct to improve the energy production of cells, including the skin, which contributes to a pro-aging effect with greater liveliness and brightness”, concludes Maria Eugênia.
inspires transformation in the world of work, in business, in society. Compasso, a content and connection agency, is born.
Source: Terra
Ben Stock is a lifestyle journalist and author at Gossipify. He writes about topics such as health, wellness, travel, food and home decor. He provides practical advice and inspiration to improve well-being, keeps readers up to date with latest lifestyle news and trends, known for his engaging writing style, in-depth analysis and unique perspectives.
