Brazilian drinks, dishes, desserts and e-commerce set the tone for the house’s new menus
Open your mouth and close your ears. Without hearing Mario Panezo’s accent, the diner’s palate is led to believe that Feriae is a Brazilian cuisine restaurant. Hipsterized, without cliché recipes, but Brazilian.
Unlike the commitment to sustainability, classifying food does not seem to be an effort of the Colombian political scientist, who identifies more with the role of creative director than with that of chef of the restaurant.
However, by renewing most of the menus, Mario brings back flavors, soundtrack, colors and techniques familiar not only to the Paulistas of Baixo Pinheiros. The plural refers to the drinks and wine list, the executive menu and the menu itself.
From back to front, the division “open mouths”, “snacks”, “centre of the table”, “second courses” and “dessert menu” has been abolished. It has become less verbose, not less redundant – and this is not necessarily a criticism.
One example is the cassava and coconut cake, which comes with burnt coconut sorbet, as well as tuille and palm caramel (R$42). Coconut with coconut, palm oil with palm oil and lots of sugar with sugar.
Even more illustrative is the rabbit and bird (R$59): four meaty pieces of meat sleep in an intensely garlic-scented cachaça marinade. Once ready, they get a storm of more garlic.
To be ready and golden, as expected, they are fried. Which doesn’t stop them from being irresistibly accompanied by another delicious delight, pepper mayonnaise.
There is also redundancy in the portion of fish cakes (R$56). The cassava creates a crunchy homemade flour that coats the rillette (a type of confit fish pâté) and the tucupi that flavors the aioli. And yes, once again the frying begs to be macerated in more fat…
In defense of fatty foods, they always accompany a little lemon (burnt or not) and a small portion of pickles, which exercise that infantile psychology, like that of pineapple, which sweetens a substantial meal.
By the way, Mario really likes hearty recipes: in salads he swaps the leaves for grilled vegetables, legumes, cheeses and nuts in the salad of the day (R$52) and, in the executive one (R$89, with a main course and a dessert of the day), abuse potatoes and mayonnaise.
The inspiration was the Japanese “poteto sarada”, however, once ready, it reminded him of the Peruvian causes. In some way he also remembers the couscous of San Paolo, a cold corn on the cob, very seasoned and full of colours.
The suggestion to follow is fish (like cambucu) with hummus and bean vinaigrette, with particular attention to green beans, which resemble broad beans and are organically produced in São Roque.
In fact, that’s where the new house orange wine comes from, which no, doesn’t come from a bottle. Like the white Riba grape, it is a natureba from the Bellaquinta winery and will be available on Feriae’s e-commerce, scheduled to open at the end of the month.
It’s worth noting that the new cocktails can’t be ordered via the site, but they deserve to be accompanied by a Brazilian-style shot, with either the Salty Manga (with fermented fruit, orange and cachaça, R$42) or the Julieta Sem Romeu (with guava cordial, lemon wedges, cachaça and grana padano nacional, R$42).
Vacation
R. Father Carvalho, 171, Pinheiros. from Tuesday to Friday, from 12:00 to 15:00 and from 19:00 to 23:00; Saturday, from 12:00 to 23:00; Sun., from 12:00 to 17:00. Tel.: (11) 96381-0171
Source: Terra
Ben Stock is a lifestyle journalist and author at Gossipify. He writes about topics such as health, wellness, travel, food and home decor. He provides practical advice and inspiration to improve well-being, keeps readers up to date with latest lifestyle news and trends, known for his engaging writing style, in-depth analysis and unique perspectives.
