Paladar brought together a team of experts to blind taste ten brands of Italian cheese; see who won
Cured, smoked, salty and full of personality. When it comes to provolone there is no middle ground. Produced from cow’s milk, the typical Italian cheese has as its trademark its pasta filada (the same elastic consistency as cheeses such as mozzarella), which goes through the process of maturing and smoking: this is what gives provolone its intensity .
The recipe, which arrived in the country through the hands of Italian immigrants, permeates the emotional memory of many Brazilians. “My grandfather bought brand new pieces of provolone and smoked it himself, in a very rudimentary smoker he had in his backyard,” recalls chef and cured meat specialist Egon Jais, of Jais Hand Made, a brand that won a gold medal in blind bacon test.
How to consume provolone
Argentinians are also passionate about cheeses of Italian origin. The most classic preparation is provoleta, a classic accompaniment to Buenos Aires barbecue. It simply consists of serving melted cheese. In Pobre Juan restaurant’s version, present in three locations in the capital São Paulo and inspired by classic Argentine parrilla houses, the cheese (R$66, 230g) is grilled on the parrilla and finished with oregano and cherry tomatoes.
When preparing it, however, you must take into account that the flavor of the cheese tends to become more intense after cooking. «For this reason I suggest lighter side dishes, such as grilled vegetables, to balance the salt content», explains the Italian consultant chef Sauro Scarabotta.
And to find out which is the best provolone on sale in supermarkets, Paladar gathered a team of experts at the Pobre Juan restaurant to blindly evaluate ten brands. The jury included the marketing director of Pobre Juan, Marcelo Maia, the Italian consultant chef Sauro Scarabotta, the chef Jacqueline Iwao, of the Urban Kitchen restaurant, Org Pizzaria and the Nice Cream ice cream shop, the chef and cured meats specialist Egon Jais, of Jais Hand Made, and the Argentine chef and roaster Chico Mancuso, from Rincon Escondido.
How the test was carried out
In all the tests carried out by Paladar, the report examines the brands available in the market. And, in the days before the test, the samples are purchased* in the large supermarket chains and in the stores of the capital São Paulo. In the case of artisanal products, they are purchased anonymously in the brands’ online stores. In other words, in both cases, brands do not know that their products will be subjected to a blind tasting. Paladar Testou is a 100% editorial initiative. Furthermore, the jury does not know which brands are part of the selection before the calculation results.
The provolone samples were evaluated based on four criteria: appearance, texture, aroma and flavor. In addition to tasting the fresh cheeses, the jury tried the grilled version on the parrilla. And the winner of the blind test was the cheese produced by the Tania dairy, which is part of the Arc group’s portfolio, with brands such as Shefa and Gold. So, check out the review**.
The best provolone
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Tania
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Roni
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Redemption
*product values mentioned below are valid from 18 to 21 October 2024.
** the ratings below are a compilation of judges’ comments during the test.
All brands evaluated
Grand Masters
The Catarina brand presents a line of products developed by Italian master cheesemakers. One of these is provolone, which undergoes a smoking process in a wood-fired oven, according to information on the company’s website. Lighter in colour, the brand’s cheese has a very soft texture and a subtle smoky flavour. In the mouth it has a neutral flavour. (R$ 112, per kilo, at Casa Santa Luzia)
Paiolzinho
One of the cheeses produced by the dairy located in Cruzília (MG) is provolone, which undergoes natural maturation and smoking processes, according to the manufacturer’s information. The golden-colored and chewy cheese has a pleasant smoky aroma. The flavor, however, is very delicate. (R$49.80, per kilo, at Hirota Food Supermercados)
PJ
Produced by the dairy located in Ingaí (MG), the brand’s provolone has an intense yellow color and a slightly crumbly texture. With an intense smoked aroma, the salty flavor predominates in the mouth, which is balanced after being grilled. (R$ 119.90, per kilo, at Oba Hortifruti)
President
Produced in Brazil by the French brand, the provolone goes through the maturation and smoking processes, according to the information on the package. Lighter in color, the soft cheese has a subtle smoky aroma. In the mouth it has a neutral flavor and the right amount of salt. (R$ 99, per kilo, at Casa Santa Luzia)
Quatà
One of the cheeses produced by the dairy is provolone, which undergoes maturing and smoking processes. With a slightly yellowish color, the cheese has a soft and slightly buttery texture and has little smoked aroma. In the mouth it is the salt that stands out. (R$ 79.98, per kilo, per Mambo)
Redemption
The provolone produced by the dairy located in Redenção da Serra, in the hinterland of São Paulo, won a bronze medal in the blind test. With a slightly golden color and a pleasant smoky aroma, which extends to the flavour, the soft cheese has an extra salty tone, a more evident characteristic in the parrilla. (R$ 105.50, per kilo, in Varanda)
Roni
Famous for its stand at the Municipal Market, the dairy took second place in the blind test with its provolone. Aged and smoked, the lighter colored cheese has some holes in the crumb. With a firm and slightly crumbly consistency, provolone has a milky aroma. In the mouth it has the right amount of salt, as well as smoked notes. (R$68, per kilo, in Queijos Roni)
Stairs
One of the cheeses produced by the brand is provolone, which goes through maturing and smoking processes. With a lighter color and soft texture, the cheese has an intense aroma reminiscent of liquid smoke. The flavor of milk and a higher salt content stand out in the mouth. (R$ 90.99, per kilo, in the San Marche)
Tania
The brand’s provolone wins first place in the blind tasting. Matured and smoked, the cheese is straw yellow in color and has small holes in the center. With a compact consistency, it has a smoky and milky aroma. And, in the mouth, it has a balanced flavor and a slight spiciness in the finish. It also gave better results in the parrilla test, forming a golden crust and maintaining a balanced flavour. (R$95, per kilo, at Empório Dois Irmão)
Tirolez
In addition to coalho cheese, which won a gold medal in the Paladar blind test, the brand also produces cheeses such as provolone, which goes through maturation and smoking processes. Lighter in color, the soft cheese has an intense smoky aroma. With a neutral flavour, it is slightly spicy in the finish. (R$ 139.89, per kilo, in the San Marche)
Source: Terra
Ben Stock is a lifestyle journalist and author at Gossipify. He writes about topics such as health, wellness, travel, food and home decor. He provides practical advice and inspiration to improve well-being, keeps readers up to date with latest lifestyle news and trends, known for his engaging writing style, in-depth analysis and unique perspectives.
