Di Gioia Giudici – The collection of the Italian brand Prada for next summer is of a raw simplicity, almost brutal, like life itself, which parades in an immersive scenario entirely in black paper, in which cracks open to show the shorts created for the occasion from the director of “Drive” Nicolas Winding Refn.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons collaborate with the Danish filmmaker for Prada’s Spring-Summer 2023 women’s collection, presented on 22 September during Milan Fashion Week (MFW).
The goal was to contextualize the maison’s new collection with the help of Refn, creating a unique experience for the season.
The project entitled “Touch of Crude” transformed the setting of the show into an immersive installation, in which a series of interconnected short films were also screened.
“The language used in the setting, the torn paper is reflected in the clothes. We are touched by the feeling of fragility, the wrong gestures and the sphere of rawness. Each piece brings with it reflections of life, has its own experience”, explained Lo Belgian designer Raf Simons, co-director of the brand.
Simplicity is the dominant theme of the collection and this can be understood from the very first releases: a series of one-piece suits with buttons, collars and long sleeves, which refer to the idea of the Prada uniform. There are also bodysuits and leggings or jumpsuits, as well as long and transparent dresses that give an idea of comfort.
“The clothes revolve around the concept of simplicity, without unnecessary complications. We often return to this concept that attracts us from a political, theoretical and aesthetic point of view. In this collection we try to combine it with the idea of ornament, beauty, how to decorate and embellish, keeping it simple, “explained Miuccia Prada.
According to the designer, “there is no room for the superfluous or for complicated structures”. “Nothing stupid: the rough, the rawness represents absolute simplicity. We wanted to create something using one of the humblest and most modest materials, paper. We applied this system of simplification and reduction to create beauty”.
“In this extreme simplicity, it is also the gestures that give shape to the dress, such as coats held tight to the chest with one hand, but a simple detail is also enough, like a bow on the back of the coat that turns into a train, to give it a new meaning to the classic, “he added.
Miuccia also stressed that “there is the meaning of a woman’s life” and “clothes take shape from experiences and humanity: they are not superficial ornaments, but vestiges of life that leave their marks”. “What excites us is the very idea that clothes are shaped by humanity,” she concluded.
For Simons, «this collection, more than the previous ones, contains different points of view. In a certain sense it reflects cinema, because it bears witness to fragments of a larger whole, in which different works move within a single body and between various stylistic codes. “.
“It is a cross between raw and sensual, delicacy and roughness, what contaminates the day with the night”, he concluded.
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Source: Terra
Benjamin Smith is a fashion journalist and author at Gossipify, known for his coverage of the latest fashion trends and industry insights. He writes about clothing, shoes, accessories, and runway shows, providing in-depth analysis and unique perspectives. He’s respected for his ability to spot emerging designers and trends, and for providing practical fashion advice to readers.
