Guest column: Caitrina Balfy urges New York lawmakers to pass fashion workers law to protect models

Before I started acting, I worked as a model for almost 10 years. I walked the paths of brands like Victoria’s Secret and Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Chanel and many other fashion houses. But despite my success, I still suffer from the disadvantages of working in a largely unregulated industry, such as not getting paid on time, if ever. Everything changed when I became an actor, but fashion continues with the same charm, and worse.

Apparently, acting and modeling have an almost identical business structure: agencies put on shows on their behalf as talented people. So why do these two industries have completely different responsibilities to their creative workforce?

Well, one thing, fashion is an industry that is mostly made up of women and girls. For many, modeling is not seen as a “job” but as a benefit of winning the genetic lottery. Thus, role models are perceived as privileged, lacking in talent or ability, and therefore not deserving of basic protection or even compassion. This goes against the actors being seen as talented, even receiving an entire season of wide-ranging television awards celebrating that talent, plus the protection they enjoy as part of a tightly knit workforce.

But the real problem here is that many modeling agencies have created and benefited from a system where they don’t take responsibility for promoting the model’s career or financial interests, but still dictate the terms of those models. This is radically different from the relationship I experienced with my agency as an actor.

Unlike talent agencies, which are considered employment agencies, modeling agencies are classified as “management companies”. Many contracts give modeling agencies “power of attorney,” allowing them to make payments and negotiate a payment rate on the model’s behalf without her knowledge; Deposit checks and deductions for unexplained expenses, plus a hefty commission; Force models and creatives to sign exclusive, multi-year, auto-renewable contracts with no obligation to reserve work for them; And they can even authorize third parties to use the model’s image or charge royalties for such use without paying the model.

And yet, modeling agencies have no fiduciary responsibility for the talent they represent. Therefore, it is common for agencies to negotiate low rates or even pay in “exchange” or clothes, while charging additional rent to house 10 girls in a two-bedroom apartment.

While I was lucky enough to represent some amazing agents when I was working, I experienced what in any other industry would be considered a massive violation of my rights as an employee. I was earning €240,000 while working in Milan, but I never saw one. This is because the agency’s financiers allegedly transferred their models’ money to private bank accounts and the agency filed for bankruptcy. Recovering that revenue would require calling every client I’ve ever worked with, including Miukia Prada, Domenico Dolce, Stefano Gabbana, Angela Missoni, and more. Clearly, this was not a profitable strategy if he wanted to keep working. I wasn’t the only model to lose money with this agency, nor did I suffer the biggest loss. As far as I know, no money has been withdrawn.

After that I knew I had enough. I did what models say never to do: I told my agency that I refused to continue working for another brand that never paid on time until all debt was paid. It took me a year to get my income.

Shortly after this experience, I realized my dream of acting. And suddenly, for the first time in my professional life, I realized when my salary would arrive and how much it would be. Finally, establish a framework for when my day will begin and end. And there were contracts that I would have access to that my lawyer could discuss with me. These were dramatically simple changes I experienced when my career was in the hands of talented agencies who are committed to acting in the best interest of their clients.

All employees deserve this level of financial transparency. Now in New York, a new bill could avert a power imbalance that has dominated the $2.5 trillion fashion industry for decades.

The Fashion Workers Act, launched by the Model Alliance earlier this year, closes the loophole whereby dominant companies evade regulation and engage in predatory behavior. This will create a basic defense for the creative worker, forcing companies and clients to do strange things, like paying talent within 45 days of completion of work, providing talent with copies of their contracts and agreements, and conducting reasonable investigations into health and safety. safety. The set sends talent to name a few.

Models are taught to accept this injustice without pain: stay calm and don’t jump ship. It does not create an environment for the organization. That’s why New York lawmakers must act and pass the Fashion Workers Act and change the rules of the industry forever.

Caitriona Balf is an actress, producer and former model. Since 2014, she has played the role of Claire Fraser in the historical drama Starz. unknownfor which he received five Golden Globe nominations. More recently, she starred in a Kenneth Branagh film. Belfast, for which he received SAG and BAFTA Award nominations. Balf has also acted in films such as Ford vs Ferrari, money monster, ᲐNow you see, escape plan s super 8.