The place where the morning is born: how we got to Sakhalin

Indeed, the largest island of the largest country is located at a distance of six and a half thousand kilometers from Moscow, and by plane it takes 8 hours one way. At the same time, tickets are no more expensive than to the south and flights operate every day. Time flies on the flight – you’ve had lunch, taken a nap, watched a movie and now you’re on the island where Russia greets the morning.

The tourist season in Sakhalin today lasts all year round, but most people come here from April to October. The climate is moderate monsoon, meaning winters are snowy and freezing and summers are unpredictable. It could be +35 degrees, or maybe +10 with rain. But don’t let that scare you, any weather in Sakhalin only adds beauty and impressions to the collection.

In collaboration with the Baon company, we tested a new fall-winter collection. The Baon Comfort line is ideal for active travel. The distances between Sakhalin attractions are impressive; a one-way trip can take up to several hours, so comfort is paramount.

A wide selection of cozy sweatshirts, sweatpants and hoodies: they all match perfectly and easily fit into your everyday wardrobe. Be sure to take water-soaked jackets and down jackets with you – rain can start at any time, and strong winds are common here.

We begin our exploration of the island with a walk around Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Around 180,000 people live in the region’s capital, around a third of the island’s total population. On the one hand, it is very similar to many similar cities in Russia – the central square with the Lenin monument, five-story buildings of the same type, shopping centers. On the other hand, it is very comfortable, not depressing, it is surrounded by hills and the humid sea air is heard there.

But the main reason people come to the island is the stunning nature and views that can’t be found anywhere else. So let’s share the journey.

It is the only island natural park in Russia. Getting there is considered a great success, as the island is often “off limits” due to bad weather. The boat ride from Nevelsk port took about two hours and, despite the sunny weather, the wind was strong and the spray from the waves resembled light rain. At this point, we appreciated the waterproof and windproof nature of the Baon down jackets: they became a reliable barrier and retained warmth and comfort.

Maneron is an uninhabited island, there is a small train station with employees, a chapel and two guest houses where you can spend the night in summer. A colony of seals and sea lions, bird colonies, a large cave with amazingly colored walls and an old Japanese lighthouse – for an island with a total area of ​​16 km2, an impressive list of attractions.

But what is most amazing about the marine park is the crystal clear water, which allows you to look up to 40 meters deep. This is enough to earn the title of one of the best diving spots in Russia.

The path that leads there is an adventure all its own. Two and a half hours of off-road driving in a jeep, through dense forests with strange vegetation like bamboo. There are holes, puddles, streams and rivers everywhere, of which, according to official statistics, there are 61,000 of them on Sakhalin! In such moments you understand once again how important good travel companions are.

Our driver played songs about Sakhalin all the way there and back (which took about 5 hours!) (there were more than a dozen), talked about the beauty of the Kuril Islands, where he is recently returned from vacation and why Koreans (his name is Kim Jong Il and his ancestors moved to the island more than a hundred years ago) life is good in the Far East. In general, the time passed quickly, the motion sickness pill worked and we found ourselves at the natural monument – Cape Bird and Giant.

They get their name because birds like to nest near the first and the profile of the second resembles the huge head of an old man. Along the sandy coast there are large stone arches, oddly shaped stones, caves and kekuras. Locals come here all day, and in summer at night they pitch tents, fry meat and catch crabs. And tourists take the most colorful photographs.

The Baon Forester collection fits perfectly into the landscape. Cozy and comfortable looks in soft autumnal shades: beige, dark green, gray, milk and ecru. The flagship model of the women’s line is a corduroy pantsuit in the style of the 70s. There is also a traditionally wide group of knitwear – woolen cardigans, sweaters and turtlenecks in a pleasant variety, everyone will find the right model.

The most mystical place on the island. The frog is a huge eight-meter block that looks like an amphibian crouching before jumping. The ascent is along an eco-trail, quite simple, beautiful and well-maintained, and from above there is a stunning view of Aniva Bay. So skeptics will at least enjoy the walk. And those who believe in energetically strong places can still gain esoteric experience.

At the start of the climb, you will be asked to bathe in a mountain stream and wash your hands to rid yourself of negative energies. Then there are two stones. They need to be rubbed and, sitting down, on the first, mentally ask to leave in the past everything that is difficult and interferes with life, and on the second, make a wish. Along the way there will still be stones where you can ask for longevity, money and children. And having reached the frog itself, it is recommended to lie down, stretch and ask for a healthy body. But that’s not all!

There is a small hole in the side of the stone block, the size of an average human head. So you have to put it there and ask the question that worries you. And then wait for the answer to come. At first we laughed together, but then the whole group of 10 people took turns obediently lowering their heads into the hole. Whether answers were received, history is still silent.

These three attractions can be seen on a trip along the east coast of the island. The road runs along the seaside, forcing you to meditate a little along the way. In Sakhalin, by the way, we often find ourselves in the mood to want to freeze, stop and remember the moment. This place is definitely not a fancy hotel.

The Torii Gate is one of the few remaining artifacts of the Japanese presence on the island. They were built in 1940. At that time there was a Japanese port, the Shiraura settlement and the Higashi Shiraura jinja temple – “Eastern House of God”. There is only a gate and a view of the sea, the hills and the village of Vzmorye.

Klokovsky Waterfall is not the highest on the island, but it is one of the most accessible. A moderately elevated and graded trail leads there, so be prepared for an easy hike. The height of the waterfall is 48 meters, the water falls very beautifully on the rocks, surrounded by trees and other vegetation of Sakhalin. There is no connection here, so once again just sit on a bench and meditate to the sounds of the water and the forest.

It is ideal to end a day of immersion in yourself and the nature of Sakhalin in Tikhaya Bay. A favorite vacation spot for locals, because the beaches are separated from the shore by steep cliffs and in hot weather the water warms up well. But here Sakhalin once again showed us its harsh character, because a strong wind blew along the shore and high waves raged. However, in such moments you feel more intensely that you are at the gates of Russia, in the wild.

Lovers of civilized vacations will also have plenty to do. In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, at least three places are dedicated to Anton Pavlovich Chekhov: a square, a museum and a drama theater. He stayed on the island for three months in the summer of 1890 and wrote the book “Sakhalin Island” – an invaluable work about the life of the inhabitants of Sakhalin at that time. In the National Regional Museum of Local Lore, you can see the skeletons of dinosaurs that lived in this region and learn about the history of the local Ainu people. And in the evening, reinforce your impressions in a restaurant offering local, Korean or Japanese cuisine.

An elegant appearance is guaranteed by the limited edition Baon Why not collection. There are pieces made from noble materials such as wool and cashmere, trendy cherry and burgundy colors, but also basic gray and black colors and trendy styles – fringed dresses, pencil skirts in crinkle-effect varnish and prints. which are not devoid of humor.

So, a quick summary of what impressed me the most during the trip to Sakhalin. Firstly, here you get a special idea of ​​the scale of the country and understand how diverse our nature, culture and history are. As pretentious as it may sound, a healthy patriotism and respect for heritage appear here.

Second, nature. At some point I got used to the view of the sea and even began to think that somehow all this resembled the south of Russia, when suddenly a family of seals swam past the shore, curiously sticking out their snouts and wagging their tails. On the way to Maneron Island I saw dolphins and even a fountain of killer whales.

Fourth, the food! Sea urchins, crabs, Sakhalin shrimps, oysters, scallops – ours, fresh and tasty. And of course, goldfish and caviar. Make sure to bring it with you!

Fifth, the region is now actively developing, something is constantly happening here, new places are opening, young professionals from all over the country come to live and work. This is felt and gives the island additional energy. And finally, at least once in your life it is worth being in the place where morning begins for the whole country.