A new wave of pastry chefs focuses on inclusive desserts but without forgetting the appreciation for the look and, of course, the taste
Ants or not, it’s hard to find someone who can resist a wet slice of chocolate cake, a scoop of ice cream on a summer afternoon, and, not to mention, a brigadeiro at the children’s party table. A sweet brings joy, concludes the meal and still calms desires in moments of tension. Imagine, then, a life away from them – walking past a bakery and having to resist beautiful cakes or entremets, whether they are due to intolerances or chronic diseases, such as diabetes – is not an easy task.
Diet (sugar-free) sweets are nothing new. They were still there, but hiding at the bottom of the window, without much care or appeal. Gluten-free or lactose-free versions, to satisfy the intolerant, are a more recent trend, but they seem to satisfy more of a fitness demand than actually interested parties – always accompanied by a slogan, look or ingredient (there are whey protein), and sold in stores alongside dietary supplements and not on pretty trays displayed in shop windows or elaborate packaging.
But one A new wave of bakeries is emerging to change this scene. Above all, they try to satisfy the indulgences of the private individual – and to involve everyone in the celebrations – by offering delicious and elaborate sweets, overcoming the restrictions.
“I try to create desserts that everyone likes and that everyone also serves, which can be taken as a dessert for dinner, without being left alone for the intolerant, – with flavor and presentation like any other,” he says. Isabela Akkarione of the pioneers of this tide, who runs the patisserie that bears his name.
#Without, without, without
The proposal of the bakeries is to offer exquisite sweets, free of gluten, lactose, refined and artificial preservatives. In addition to vegan and zero sugar options. For this they bet on alternative flours, such as rice, coconut and almonds, vegan chocolates, vegetable milks, sugar and coconut oil and natural sweeteners.
Now, if your big question is the same as mine: is the speech well accompanied by flavor? A slice of double chocolate cake (# semaçucar #semlactose #glutense) from Akkari dispels any suspicion. The dark dough is soft and moist, with an intense cocoa flavor and receives a generous homemade condensed milk syrup, made with lactose-free milk. The same goes for the alfajores, which surprise even those unaware of the ingredient list – they’re all a little less sweet than the traditional versions, which, in fact, is a good choice.
Alchemy
The candies are created from the original recipe. Some tests take up to six months: original and “fake” are tested side by side until (almost) no difference is felt. “Wheat flour is perfect for pastry, the cake is soft, with structure. When you remove it, it is not enough to replace it with another one, you need to make a combination of ingredients. Coconut flour, for example, gives structure, while the almond one adds moisture. I’m making adjustments to the elements to get the consistency and flavor of the traditional “, explains Giovana Vasto, of the Healthy Things bakeryor HT, as it is known.
With a degree in pastry from London’s Cordon Bleu and steps through acclaimed kitchens such as chef Alain Ducasse and Blue Hill Stone Barns in the United States, Giovana, who returned to Brazil, sought to apply what she had learned in both experiences in something that could make sense of it. “In the classic French pastry, as incredible and delicious as it is, a lot of use is made of butter, creams, refined sugar … At Blue Hill I had direct contact with the best ingredients, used in the most natural way, and I realized how much they are important for the final result “.
Among its greatest boasts (and sales successes) are brownies, moist and with a crunchy chocolate shell, gluten-free or lactose-free, sold in versions with coconut or dietary sugar, prepared with xylitol, a natural sweetener from sweetening power similar to refined sugar and without the artificial aftertaste. But Giovana prioritizes the use of coconut sugar. “I always ask customers that this is a diabetic product and that xylitol can have a laxative effect.”

THE Healthy bites is another “healthy” pastry that doesn’t play when it comes to satisfying sugar cravings, but without it. Moist, soft, with balanced fillings, the cakes developed by Victória Della Manna, head of the brand, make it clear that the softer doughs are not made of gluten (sugar or lactose). And if you have to start with one, the coconut cake filled with dulce de leche and icing is worth trying.
The gang also ventures into vegan sweets – no eggs, no butter or milk – which is quite a challenge when it comes to candy. In vanilla cocoa, from nutritionist and pastry chef Renata Baldin, all desserts are free of animal-based ingredients – without sacrificing taste. It uses and abuses good quality cocoa, dates, raisins, flax seeds, chia and an old acquaintance of this group, the green banana biomass. Her menu includes more than 50 items, including cakes, party cakes – beautiful, by the way – and brigadeiro, which, believe me, is very similar to the original.
Guilt-free candy?
Most of these bakeries carry the healthy bet, or “healthy”, in English, in the name. Everyone raises a flag on what is healthy, both for the choice of ingredients and also for the nutritional factor of the recipes. For nutritionist Sophie Deran, PhD in the USP School of Medicine’s department of endocrinology, the use of the word healthy is complex. On the one hand, it is a fact that we need to reduce the amount of sugar ingested.
“Brazil consumes a lot of sugar. According to a study by the World Health Organization, we consume 50% more every day than recommended. The problem is that it shouldn’t simply be replaced.” He reminds us that even alternative sweeteners or sugars have harmful effects on our body if consumed in excess. Another important warning Deran makes is to think that a gluten-free candy is healthier than one with the ingredient. “If you don’t have a problem with it, you shouldn’t avoid it. Stopping such products doesn’t necessarily mean a healthier diet.”
This look is similar to that of the pastry chef Regina Paula, from Fioca, installed in a charming residence in Vila Buarque. For her, health is as natural as possible. There, she appreciates organic, original food: the eggs and some of the fruits used in the pastry come from the family farm. White sugar goes a long way: she prefers brown or demerara, always in the least amount possible, but without demonizing them. “My clients already know that my candies aren’t that sweet, but over time they realize they don’t need to.”
Where found
Vegan Vanilla Cocoa and Healthy Pastry
Whatsapp orders and requests (11) 97500-6097
Delivery by iFood
wire
R. Barão de Tatui, 555, Vila Buarque. 11: 00/18: 00 (Sunday closed)
Orders and orders via WhatsApp. (11) 99615-1873
Healthy bites workshop
WhatsApp Orders and Inquiries (11) 99984-9187
Delivery of Rappi and iFood
Garage. R. Clodomiro Amazonas, 1158
Shop. CJ Shops (R. Haddock Lobo 1626, 1st floor)
Healthy sweets HT
WhatsApp Orders and Requests (11) 98777-7271
Delivery of Rappi and iFood
Isabela Akkari handmade healthy sweets
Garage. R. Commander Miguel Calfat, 410, Itaim
Petit Café Shopping Iguatemi. Av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2232, ground floor. Itaim.
Delivery via iFood, Rappi, Ubereats and their own app
Isabel Buk
Orders and inquiries via WhatsApp (11) 99892-9565 or phone (11) 2501-5040
Delivery on iFood and Rappi
Source: Terra

Benjamin Smith is a fashion journalist and author at Gossipify, known for his coverage of the latest fashion trends and industry insights. He writes about clothing, shoes, accessories, and runway shows, providing in-depth analysis and unique perspectives. He’s respected for his ability to spot emerging designers and trends, and for providing practical fashion advice to readers.