We save the nails from brittleness, bumps and yellowing: what is a structured manicure and how to do it

For all these problems there is a common solution – a structured manicure.

This technique involves the use of a special gel base, which smoothes and levels the nail, and also extends the life of the coating. “To put it simply, it’s a way to create a stronger, more aesthetically pleasing nail. We make the center of the plate thicker, which reduces vulnerability and gives an elegant curve,” says celebrity manicurist Julie Kandalec.

Hollywood nail artist Laura Malarchi adds that structured manicures look the best and last the longest. “It does little to no plaque damage and really helps grow long, strong nails for those who are prone to brittleness and delamination,” says Laura.

As Malarki explains, all design gels used for a structured manicure are divided into soft and hard gels: the first is enough to soak in acetone to remove it, the second will have to be cut. There are also hybrids: semi-solid gels that remove 90% mechanically, after which soaking is necessary to get rid of the residue. Laura reminds that filing is potentially dangerous for the nails, so it is important to do it as carefully as possible. It is even better to delegate this procedure to an experienced manicurist.

The duration of the procedure depends on the type of gel used and the experience of the master, however, whether you are doing a structured manicure at home or in a salon, the algorithm will be the same.

Remove the old varnish, file the plates, push back the cuticles, polish the surface of the nails and wipe them with an alcohol wipe.

In some cases, you can skip this step: pay attention to the instructions for the builder gel you are using.

“Apply it in a thin, even coat down the center of the nail, increasing the thickness at the tip for a more defined, long-lasting shape,” advises Kandalek. After that, the coating should be dried in a lamp, following the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Like conventional gel polishes, some design coatings have a residual sticky layer, also called a dispersion layer – this must be wiped off with acetone.

“Remember to dry each layer of color under the lamp,” Kandalek reminds.

To fix a structured manicure and add shine, Julie recommends using a top coat.

To make your manicure last longer and look better, your hands and nails need moisture, so remember to use cuticle cream and oil every day.

Read also: How to Get Rid of Grooves on Your Nails: 7 Life Hacks That Will Help You

According to Kandalek, it all depends on the salon, but on average it’s 40-50% more expensive than usual. “Yet a structured manicure lasts twice as long and is therefore cheaper in the long run,” notes Julie.

The main feature of a structured manicure is a special base that smoothes and evens out the surface of the nail. In addition to design gel, you can apply any coating – ordinary varnish, gel or powder.

According to Malarka, a structured manicure is one of the healthiest ways to care for your nails, and if you want extra softness, durability, and length, you should consider this option on your next trip to the salon.