Gary Oldman arrived at Monday night's Emmys nominated for outstanding lead actor in a drama series for his role as spy boss Jackson Lamb on Apple TV's Slow Horses, sporting a deliberately undone low bun and a grooming look built to hide any trace that he had spent time in a makeup chair at all.
The actor's makeup artist, Desirae Cherman, told the Daily Mail that the goal was minimal coverage rather than a full face of makeup. "For Gary's grooming, we keep things very minimal - a bit of concealer where needed, hydration and powder to keep the skin looking natural and fresh," Cherman said.
Oldman, 68, has played Jackson Lamb, the disheveled, foul-mouthed head of a unit of disgraced MI5 agents, since the show premiered. The role has required him to keep his hair longer than usual, which gave Cherman the length she needed to pull it back for the red carpet.
Step 1: The moisturizer
Cherman started with Caldera + Lab The Base Layer Anti-Aging Rich Moisturizer, which retails for $65, to give Oldman's skin enough hydration to sit smoothly under concealer without leaving shine.
"One of my favorites for men," she said. "It gives the skin plenty of hydration without leaving behind too much shine."
A cheaper option, Versed Daily Recovery Rich Barrier Cream at $19.99, shares six listed ingredients with the Caldera + Lab formula, including glycerin, squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride and cetearyl alcohol. Both are silicone-free creams designed to hydrate without a greasy film, though Versed also adds niacinamide and ceramide NP and lists no added fragrance.
Step 2: The concealer
Rather than applying foundation across Oldman's whole face, Cherman used Maxine's Revenge French Face Concealer, priced at $36, only on the spots that needed coverage.
"I use this for any spot concealing that needs to be done," she said. "It's an incredible formula that still allows the skin to look like skin, with buildable coverage where you need a little more."
Step 3: The powder
Next came a light layer of MAKE UP FOR EVER HD Skin Blurring & Perfecting Loose Setting Powder, $42, to cut shine while keeping the natural finish Cherman had built with the moisturizer and concealer.
"This is very finely milled, so it goes on seamlessly without leaving any white residue," she said. "It's perfect for controlling shine while maintaining a natural finish."
Cherman's budget alternative is Neutrogena Hydro Boost Translucent Loose Setting Powder, which costs $16. Both are talc-free loose powders that use absorbent powders and light-reflecting minerals to set makeup and soften the look of pores, though the Neutrogena version adds sodium hyaluronate, aloe and castor oil for a more hydrating finish.
Step 4: The texture spray
With Oldman's hair grown out for the role, Cherman had enough length to gather it into a low bun. Before shaping it, she sprayed in Chris McMillan The Dry Texture and Volume Spray, $38, to build separation and grip. The formula contains zeolite, an absorbent mineral that adds texture without the powdery finish of a traditional dry shampoo.
Cherman said she uses it "to create texture and movement without making the hair feel sticky or overly styled."
A lower-cost swap, Not Your Mother's Beach Babe Texturizing Dry Finish Spray at $10, relies on the same core ingredients: denatured alcohol for a fast, weightless dry-down, VP/VA copolymer for flexible hold and zeolite for grit, plus glycerin in both formulas to help counter dryness.
Step 5: The hairspray
Cherman finished the look with amika Headstrong Intense Hold Hairspray, $27, a fast-drying formula that held the bun's shape without flattening it.
"We always gravitate toward a pulled-back, slightly messy low bun for Gary," she said. "His hair is long for the show, so we like to get it off his face while maintaining texture, volume and that slightly piecey, undone quality."
The last check, according to Cherman, was making sure nothing looked too polished. "Nothing too perfect," she said. "The goal is for it to feel lived-in and effortless."
