How and what acids can be used in the summer – experts say

A long recognized fact in cosmetology is that we cannot do without acids. They are highly valued both in professional care and at home, as they have a number of undeniable qualities.

Most often used alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) and polyhydroxy acids (PHA)autonomous retinoic acid. FOR

the islands are known exfoliating opportunities. Simply put, they dissolve dead cells, so to speak, without hurting the skin. This is a big difference between acid and abrasive peels and aggressive hardware procedures, which are traumatic for the skin and have a shorter-term effect.

Why do we need to exfoliate our skin? It is a necessary process to maintain youthful skin. Exfoliation helps address issues such as a dull complexion, clogged pores, uneven skin texture, flaking, and improving the absorption of applied cosmetics – creams and serums, which sometimes struggle to “pierce” the layer of dead cells.

Alpha hydroxy acids – glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, citric, tartaric acids, etc. The mechanism of action of the acid depends on two factors: its concentration and the pH (acidity of the product). The higher the concentration and the lower the pH, the more noticeable and pronounced the effect of the use of funds.

AHA acids are water-soluble, so they act effectively on the surface of the skin: they unify the skin relief, smooth its texture and are able to act on the fibroblasts, responsible for the synthesis of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, thus making the skin smoother and more elastic. Alpha hydroxy acids also block the migration and production of pigments. For example, glycolic acid has been proven to work with pigmentation.

A little more than 10 years ago there was an opinion that all cosmetologists and dermatologists adhered to: do not use acids in spring and summer. They were believed to have photosensitivity (the skin becomes less protected from solar radiation and therefore more pigment can be produced). To date, the world community has reviewed this trend and has come to the conclusion that alpha and beta hydroxy acids can be used in the summer. But several conditions must be met: be sure to use sunscreen with broad-spectrum filters. If you have the right sunscreen, you can use products that contain acids in acceptable concentrations all season long.

With retinol, everything is not so simple, in Russia we follow the European type, adhering to EU recommendations, and do not focus on the use of products containing retinol in the summer. In the United States, retinol is used year-round in conjunction with SPF products.

The remaining acids in home care are used in the evening, it is allowed to use such care in the summer in the conditions of beauty salons, but with the mandatory use of sunscreen. To prevent the appearance of pigmentation, in addition to products with SPF, antioxidants should be used. In the morning, antioxidants with vitamin C, ferulic acid, vitamin E, florentine are used. If there are products containing phloretin in the arsenal, acids can be used not only at home, but also in professional care.

Salicylic acid has the strongest exfoliating effect. It is lipophilic and is not only an excellent keratolytic, but also a comedolytic. Then come the AHAs in intensity: mandelic, azelaic (ideal for problem skin), citric, malic, pyruvic and other acids. They are hydrophilic and can also act as keratolytics.

And a new direction is PHA, that is, polyhydroxy acids, such as lactobionics. They are well suited for a period of active sun exposure, as they do not increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV-B rays, such as salicylic acid.

At the low concentration we use in home care, AHA and BHA combinations are ideal for chemical peels. Such chemical compositions are suitable for those who suffer from hyperkeratosis (irregular compaction of the stratum corneum of the epidermis). Remember that some acids can cause an allergic reaction.

Acids are suitable for almost everyone, except for people with very sensitive skin and atopics. Also, with caution, we prescribe acids continuously in the form of care for people prone to hyperpigmentation and photodermatosis. Here you need to consult a specialist, especially with photodermatosis.

As an acid peel, it is best to use 1-2 times a week in the evening. Home chemical peeling is applied to the skin – for 15 minutes, then it is usually washed off with water or covered with a special acid-containing agent.

Products containing acids (creams, serums, fluids) are best used in the evening. For seboregulation, as anti-inflammatories. Acids also recommended for hydration – lactic and tranexamic. And antioxidant acids – ferulic and ascorbic (instead, more stable versions are often used).

Acids can be used in summer if you apply a good sunscreen with at least SPF 50 protection before going outside.

Of the AHA acids, those that are inhibitors of the process of pigment formation are suitable: azelaic, mandelic, lactic, ferulic and others. Among the BHAs, an excellent keratolytic is salicylic acid. You can use them both in home care and in salon procedures.

If you don’t tend to form dark pigments, even low concentration glycolic acid (up to 10%) can remain in your home evening care. In the morning, you can use ferulic, ascorbic, mandelic, azelaic and lactic acids under the guise of SPF. There are no contraindications to the use of hyaluronic and tranexamic acids at any time of the day – their use is welcome.

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